Sunday, May 13, 2007

Potbox and Backup Switch

I went back to Parkrose hardware today to pick up stainless steel bolts to attach the motor cables to the controller. In the process, I got some two-conductor wire to make the connections to the potbox switch and backup-light switch cleaner.

Here's the somewhat finished potbox. Note the added accelerator cable and extra pullback spring on the potbox arm. I found I could simply use the original accelerator cable barrell connector if I screwed it in from the backside of the potbox arm. I'll add some loctite to make sure it stays there.

The blue wire has two conductors in it and replaces the two dangling black wires that I originally installed. Note that the pink quick-disconnects are tied to the right two terminals and not the far left and far right terminals as in the original DC design. This switch prevents the motor controller from engaging when the accelerator pedal is pressed.

Here are some "bullet" type crimp terminals I got from Parkrose hardware that just fit into the sockets for the reverse switch on the side of the transmission. These are a bit tough to find and I was lucky that they fit.

Here's the side of the transmission with the two-conductor cable installed on the backup-light switch. I'm a bit concerned because the nearby spinning CV joint could entangle with the wire if I don't tie it down correctly. Without the saddle boxes that came in the original 914 DC design, there are few places to tie this cable to.

On a more dangerous note, I ordered my 18 USBatt 8-v golf-cart batteries from American Battery company in California. The batteries with shipping came out to about $1900, which was slightly cheaper than I expected, given the rising costs of lead and shipping these days.

I plan to purchase several grounding straps to tie the batteries together while they sit on the floor and use welding cable to attach them to the motor controller until the battery boxes arrive from ElectroAuto.

If I ever do drag-race this machine at NEDRA, I might opt for much smaller batteries to save weight. The effective range of the car might only be ten miles, but that's not a problem when drag racing since we can recharge between runs and reduced weight is more important.

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