![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhALB8gPEOiip_TOHnsjB3exY7fcoGA60OpUDs9tzh7GNUsZEpIOSUqA8PdQgCSIWoYc_CarevSfRm_z3qhqJ96P4fZQcGYoOGh2sQFPTZ_P5JRhJkTKBZJ9-kSylw4JFwHo7rcTbOelyM/s320/starter_blockoff.jpg)
Here is the starter block-off plate to cover the hole left from the removed starter motor. Like the previous day, I was a bit surprised that the holes in the plate didn't match the spacing of the bolts on the transmission. Fortunately, the plate is just aluminum and a few minutes with a drill to move the holes closer together allowed me to slide the plate on easily.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHpV9ohfl4ncIFAuFOZIvMyfIftpLgDpXpwhFSucPzxOzAPygYqNDjelJZcHQ3jApPkH3ChoT-xaBFYkDx2xIHrFNyoVxrOlwK7TWAjo3PABI-DLKLNtPfROVP5OU0tzRaMFc3nnJcrDk/s320/cable_grommet_holes.jpg)
This is inside the driver-side fuel compartment looking forward. The two one-inch holes will get grommets for the high-current battery cables connecting the front batteries with the middle pack.
The 8-volt golf cart batteries arrived over 24 days ago and have just been sitting on the garage floor, discharging. I didn't want to let them sit for much longer, so spent $10 on 12-gauge wire and 3/8" crimp lugs to create a charging harness for the batteries.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbZIQHfzsW9aZWWggchYc52fwfgSURWp22bnJCIKpV_QmwC79VQuLBONVKP74Nebbmf2CB6tvjR-UZd-jF_IU-xpprs5BW3fjREfKWOrXgGOmsH1vLX2rZ_CsXSJEYCDQQ3eCZixuVXDk/s320/charger_wire_lugs.jpg)
Here's the 12-gauge wire and several crimp lugs. I used the tape-measure to cut all the cables to the same 7-inch length.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijPOnD3EsC1kh5z30gYJumvOgffJ4GKm4OwxkiyenBhT4bg7IR1nVFIey9H6_OJRbxB3ZAh2kxcgCb2dets5Tf5ZC1necHAnT2CWGRR5i80c6z7mnqi8uhgZ6SEnujtu_J7_W65xWU5W8/s320/charger_cables.jpg)
Here are the completed charging cables. I have 16 7-inch long cables, one 18-inch cable and two long wires crimped into one of the Anderson connectors I got from a big, dead UPS at FreeGeek. This Anderson connector matches the connector on the Zivan charger.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmUSKywdTLE4Urwv5YHAU7xt2_1N61T0yofkLjhbAvkslIFpBuXKjBVzj5FwR1A3m0sZbsM5PNf23zk65BTzrrmrHCgnuh11n9iMy2wReqpZp_XkZYeIix5wNHMCLUvvNHGJOGewwBwyI/s320/charger_assembly.jpg)
Here's the final charging setup. Since I'm dumping a maximum of 10 amps (typically much less) into these batteries during their maintenance charge, I thought the 12-gauge wires would be adequate. The 16 7-inch cables connect adjacent batteries. The 18-inch cable connects the two batteries on the end.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7xXmOpVgrn6jejhNQyb3bVgQcmBcTITaXDdv862Vx5H2a84Ls5abcAQS1gBpfXog9bX-A5KkIGWzoMGvGBu2rKnNuO435sSqUxLkH_9H7I1x-oHk0_foaSpitvCeYpG17-fZky_lECPs/s320/charger_closeup.jpg)
I used a simple drywall screw into a stud to hold the Zivan charger lightly against the wall in the proper orientation (fans up) for maintaining the batteries while I wire up the rest of the car.
I paid Zivan for a switch and special firmware to allow two different charge rates. The higher charge rate consumes a full dedicated 20-amp circuit breaker. The lower charge rate can be plugged into a 15-amp outlet that has a few other light loads attached. This will allow me to charge at work or a guest's house without overloading their circuits.
I ran out to Parkrose hardware again this morning to pick up some high-quality 10-gauge wire to start some of the internal EV wiring listed in the instructions. I'm also going to replace the #2 gauge wire that came in the crate with 2/0 cable from United Welding Supply to help carry supply current more efficiently.
Next up: Tapping into the 914 fuse block
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