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Here's the AC motor speed control box with its base and cover removed to see if it fit through the two-inch hole. It did not.
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After carefully recording which color wire went to the terminals, I removed the cable from the motor end of the box.
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Here's the cable going through the too-small two-inch hole.
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Here's the motor control box all reassembled next to the controller, ready to be held in place by rivnuts or bolts and nylock nuts.
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The next step was to attach the three-phase cable to the controller. This was quite a bit harder than I expected. A slight difference in the cable lengths made attaching the three lugs to the controller outputs difficult since the cables were rather thick and inflexible. I had to trim the copper webbing surrounding the cable. I used simple diagonal cutters with a small plastic bowl underneath the cable to prevent tiny webbing wires from splattering everywhere.
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Here's the three conductor cable tied to the three internal lugs. The cable for the far right lug was just a bit shorter, forcing me to wrangle the bundle quite a bit. I'm hoping the strain relief nut on the left edge of the box will prevent more force from possibly cracking the terminal posts.
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Electro Auto forgot to include the post terminals for the most-positive and most-negative connections in the kit. Since I didn't want to wait for EA to respond to e-mail, I went searching around on the internet to find these things. It turns out that a great source for high-current EV parts is the Marine store. Many people end up wiring up their own boats with high-current circuits, so I'm not too surprised.
I purchased these high-current post connectors from West Marine in Portland for about $9.00. As you might expect, the prices at the Marine Store were very high (about 2x the cable store), but they have a bunch of stuff and they're open during weekend hours when many specialty stores are closed.
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